the journey
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Aubrac to Conques
Day 7 - The Plateau d'Aubrac
Most regions of France have tourist routes. In Burgundy, there is the Route des Grands Crus (Pomard, Volnay, Montrachet…) but in Aubrac, we passed onto the Route du Lait (or the Milk Route.) Known for its Aubrac cows, with their dark brown eyes, it is the least populated region of France – with less than 14 inhabitants per square km.
It is an area that is rich in wildlife – home to over 2000 species of flora and fauna such as boar, deer, hare and ermin.
At higher elevations over 1300m (4200ft), the plateau turns into a desertlike microclimate. The granite boulders which dot the landscape were formed during the volcanic period. The granite was lighter than the rest of the minerals in the lava, so it floated to the top in bubbles – still visible today on the Plateau.
Day 7 - Pont de Marchestel
Flowing along the plateau d’Aubrac is the river Bès. Formed by a glacier that covered the Aubrac plains, the Bès is the principal tributary for the Lot river, which in turn feeds the Garonne.
The Chemin passes along the Bès on the high plateau, which serves as open pasture land. Pilgrims must be vigilant to lock the gates behind them and watch where they step!
The bridge seen below dates from the XVI century and still services the departmental route in Marchastel before arriving in Nasbinals.
Day 7 - Nasbinals
Made a slight detour before arriving in Nasbinals to see the cascade du Déroc. The waterfall is 33m (110ft), spring-fed from the plateau.
Nasbinal is centred around the church, built in the XI century by the Monks of St. Victor of Marseilles. It served as a resting place for Pilgrims before a particularly difficult leg of the journey.
It is known for the local specialty of Aligot, a purée of potatoes (originally bread), cheese and broth – all served with charcuterie. A legend puts aligot’s origins as far back as the 6th century AD. Three bishops of Lozères, Aveyron and Cantal met here, each of them bringing one the main ingredients.
It has been served to Pilgrims on the Chemin ever since.
Day 8 - Le Bout de l'Enfer
As described in ancient texts, the plains were known as the “horror of great loneliness” to the pilgrims. The harsh conditions, wolves, thieves and isolation caused many to start to lose their resolve.
Imagine their excitement when they saw the landscape unfold below them. Behold the Lot Valley, with its promise of shelter, bread and wine! It is at this point, marked by the Cross, that they reached the “End of Hell.”
This pilgrim felt sad to leave the beauty of the plains, but was excited to explore what treasures the trail had to offer in the coming days.
It was a steep descent into the Valley, but well worth it!
Day 8 - Aubrac
The name Aubrac comes from “alto braco” meaning “high place.” At 1320m (4300ft), this village boasts the highest elevation on the Chemin in this region.
A calvaire greets Pilgrims with an inscription that reads “Alone and in silence, one hears only what is essentiel.” It is something that is understood by both ancient and modern man passing this way. When entering the village from the east, one is impressed by the church of Notre Dame des Pauvres and the Tour des Anglais (below).
It was here in 1107, Adalard, a flemish duke and archbishop, escaped an attack by robbers while on his pilgrimage. At that moment, he dedicated his soul to God and erected a village to house and protect tired pilgrims on their arduous journey. The Tour des Anglais, built in the XV century to protect against attacks by the British, provided lodging and meals.
A light lunch of carpaccio of aubrac beef and a salad made for an enjoyable stop before pushing on to St. Chély d’Aubrac.
Day 8 - Descent into the Lot Valley
From the Plains, there is no way to imagine what ancient treasures are hidden on the trail below. To this pilgrim, there are 3 of note:
The first treasure is the Culot Volcanique de Belvezet. Over 8 million years ago, a Stromboli-like volcano slowly pushed lava into its chimney, eventually forming a cap and sealing it. The lava hardened in the cone, forming plugs that are still visible today. There are 3 such plugs still existing after millenia of erosion (See below and right.) In the XIII century, man built a surveillance tower on top.
The second treasure is the Via Agrippa, that was once the major Roman thoroughfare between Lyon and Bordeaux. Along the steep descent, there are still vestiges of the Roman paving stones (not a comfortable ride!)
Finally, the third treasure is the ruins of old mills that operated in the area, using the abundant supply of water power flowing from the plains above.
Day 8 - St. Chély d'Aubrac
The history here is sketchy. One can imagine that the village was situated around where the church now stands. It is here where cut stones dating to 3500 years BC have been found. Records show that in the middle ages the village was fortified, but no traces of the ramparts remain. In addition, in 1385, a band of brigands pillaged the town and burnt the church. So not much of the old village remains. Now, most of the village dates from the 18th and 19th centuries.
A charming hotel, stocked with Pastis and good food assured a solid sleep after a long journey of 20km (12 miles).
Leaving the city to the west, is the Pont des Pèlerins (below) and a view of the village from the hauteurs.
Day 9 - St. Côme d'Olt
St. Côme d’Olt is a picturesque, fortified city along the Lot river. It was a brief stop, this being the longest day of walking. Reached St. Côme after 6 hours of hiking and still had another 3 hours to go before my destination in Espalion. Thankfully, there was a shady spot on the banks of the Lot to soak my feet, eat a sandwich and take a short nap. Bliss!
The Eglise was built in 1522, an expansion of the original romanesque church on the site. The city was built roughly at the same time period. The Mairie, however, is the ancient Manoir des Sires de Calmont built in the 12th century and restored in the 15th.
On the outskirts of town stands the Convent of Malet (top, middle). It originally served as a hospital for pilgrims and was turned over to the Ursulines in 1806. It is now a hotel run by the good sisters. I heard that they do serve wine, but bedtime is strictly 8:30 pm!
Day 9 - Espalion
Relieved to have arrived in Espalion after 9 hours of hiking today, the 9th day of the journey. Espalion is real city, with a population of 5,000 residents! Located on the Lot, it dates from the 11th century. Took full advantage of the cafés and restaurants.
The city is accessed by the Pont Vieux (or old bridge) which is the oldest structure still standing. Made of pink sandstone, it was commissioned by the seigneurs de Calmont in 1060, however the actual structure dates from the 13th century.
One of the most imposing structures in the city is the Vieux Palais, seen on the left. This renaissance chateau was built in 1572 and served as a defense for the city during the religious wars.
The Calvaire on the top left is dedicated to St. Hilarian who was beheaded by the Persians. They kindly sent his head back to his mother who lived in this city.left
Day 10 - Bessuéjouls
Left Espalion this morning for a short walk along the Lot to the city of Estaing. The highlight of the walk today is the destination itself. However, the Chemin never ceases to surprise, so stopped off to explore Bessuéjouls.
This small village (in the middle of nowhere) boasts one of the most interesting churches on the Chemin. The Eglise Saint-Pierre is a jewel that was renovated in the 15th century, retaining its romanesque roots. It is one of the few churches that has an upper sanctuary, underneath the romanesque bell tower. The upper chapelle, accessed by a narrow stairway, is dedicated to Saint-Michel. There are rare carvings and sculptures from the 12th century of Sirènes with two tails, centaurs and other mythical creatures. The only other church with a chapelle-haut is found in Conques.
The huge pine tree provides cool shade for the tired souls (and soles) along the Chemin. Pushing onwards to Estaing.
Day 10 - Estaing
For over 700 years, Estaing has been known for its hospitality to those making the pilgrimage. Unlike the puritans who headed to America, the europeans loved their wine and food. Estaing offers an abundance of both. And this pilgrim took full advantage, including the swimming pool at the hotel !
The village sits at the entrance to the wild gorges of the Lot and was built around the Chateau d’Estaing in the 11th century (more recently bought by Valerie Giscard d’Estaing – along with the title). However, the town has gallo-roman roots. The gothic bridge and church date from 1529.
Estaing was also an important industrial and agricultural center, starting in the 16th century. Tanneries and mills operated in the village, powered by water provided by the Lot. It also had a thriving wine trade until the early 20th century, when the vines were ravished by a virus (not COVID).
Day 11 - Golinhac
Golinhac dates from the 10th century, however this small village was mostly built between the 11th – 16th centuries. It is the start of the route of the 20 crosses, dedicated to pilgrims on the way to Santiago. The calvaire below is a replica of the original (15th century) which is now housed in the church. The panorama from the church offers a spectacular view of the Aubrac and Margeride mountains.
The names ending in ‘AC’ are celtic in origin, meaning ‘domain of.’ I am a fan of all of them – Armagnac, Cognac, Bergerac, etc…
Woke to dense fog and light mist which was a welcome relief to the blazing sun for the last 10 days!
Day 12 - Espeyrac
Although Espeyrac was mentioned in written texts in the 11th century, it didn’t really come into force until 1356, when it was fortified.
A thriving industrial center since the 16th century, it boasts a history of great wealth. Two factors led to its success: rich iron mines and abundant water power. The ‘dazes’ or streams, were dammed to power the iron extraction mills. This gave rise to forges and Espeyrac became known for its production of cutlery, much like Lagioule to the north. It also had a rich source of Uranium, which was mined until the early 1960’s. Today, there are still nut-oil mills in operation, although not powered by the dazes.
It was a beautiful little village to stop for a coffee and Perrier before heading onto Senergues.
Day 12 - Senergues
The last leg on the trail before hitting the final destination in Conques. Arrived at the Gite just after 13h00. When asked if I could get something to eat, the proprietor told me that she normally doesn’t serve lunch, but could make up a plate. Out came cold roast pork, a gratin of courgettes and leeks from her garden, sliced tomatoes and a big green salad! I was in heaven.
This experience was the best of the trip – eating family style at dinner with the other pilgrims, sharing stories of the trail and bottles of wine. This is the way the Chemin should be experienced. The kindness of the proprietors and the kinship with fellow travellers filled my heart.
Day 13 - Conques
Alas, after 220 kms, last hike for this leg of the journey. Left Sénergues for Conques this morning with a full heart and strong legs…
Conques is a beautiful village that is an important waypoint on the pilgrimage. It is dedicated to Sainte Foy (or Faith) better known to Americans as Santa Fe. In the year 303, in the city of Agens, she refused to renounce her faith when she was only 8 years old. When the Romans tried to burn her over a brasier, she would still not renounce. They finally beheaded her. 500 years later, a Monk at the Abby in Conques spent 10 years infiltrating the Agens Abby, stole the relics of Ste. Foy and brought them to the Abastial here in the year 866. This made Conques one of the most important waypoints on the pilgrimage.
I hope that you enjoyed this journey with me and wish you the opportunity to undertake this journey.
Bon Chemin à Tous!
Day 14 - Back to Civilisation!
Les récompenses des pèlerins (The rewards of a Pilgrim)…
Left Conques this morning on the shuttle to the starting point in le Puy. Only 4 hours to follow the same route that took 12 days! All in all, the route by foot was so much more interesting. Met so many wonderful people en route. And Nature, in her spectacular beauty, is a reward that is often not appreciated.
On the other hand, it was a joy tonight to return to hedonism. A dinner of nature’s bounty, as only the French can do.
