the journey
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Le Puy to Finieyroles
The Journey by Day
The first leg of this journey was to Montbonnet, only a 5 hour walk from the hotel from le Puy. It was an easy hike, giving time to acclimate to the trail – reading the signs, massaging the legs, finding potable water, picking blackberries, adjusting the backpack…
The most striking observations on this leg were the architecture of the Auvergne and the crosses found along the way. The architecture is primarily of granite, with ‘Lauze’ roofing shingles (also of granite.) The fields were separated by stone walls (en pierre sec) which are stacked stone without mortar. Scattered along the trail, you will find many ‘Burons’ dating from the XIV century, providing temporary shelter for the shepherds.
The crosses along the Chemin are used as trail markers to guide pilgrims en-route.
Left le Puy in the mist, but it turned sunny and blazing hot by late morning. Arrived at the lodging just in time for lunch and enjoyed my first (of many) Pastis on the terrace overlooking the fields. Meals were fresh and locally sourced. Even enjoyed a local Verbeine (an eau de vie made from Verbena) with the owner
Day 2 - La source aux Oiseaux
Heading out of Montbonnet, the Chemin passes through a heavily wooded area with many small springs and streams. It was a cool respite from the summer heat. This is where a weary Pilgrim can find the Bird Spring.
Legend has it that Mother Nature created this spring for all to enjoy. Birds found the cool water refreshing and flocked there in droves. One day, a thirsty pilgrim arrived and was irritated by the cacophony of the birds. He took his walking stick and killed as many of them possible so he could in drink in peace. He then took a drink from the cool spring and found it delicious.
After his third gulp, Mother Nature turned him into a Satyre (letch, glutton) and fossilized him into stone. Remember to respect Mother Nature before you take your third chug!
Day 2 - St. Privât d'Allier
Left Montbonnet early and started climbing. Now entering the region known as the Margeride (named for the mountain range) and the village of St. Privat d’Allier.
Magnificent approach from the woods, with a view of the imposing chateau and église. Founded in 1046, the town was always subject to squabbles over revenues between the bishop (the Count of le Puy) and the other bishops of the area.
The Church is Gothic and stands at an elevation of 850 metres 2800 ft). The Chateau was once the domaine of the Bishop of Puy and then was bought by the Montlaur family in the XV century.
Day 2 - Le Rochegude
A climb to 1000 metres brings me to the Hameau de Rochegude, where you find the château and Chapelle St. Jacques de Rochegude.
The first written history dates from 1225, while the Chapelle dates from the late the late XII century. The Château was one of many fortified castles that once served to protect the trade route (Via Podensac) between France and Spain, as well as to collect tolls. With its romanesque façade and simple bell tower built into the rock, it is a stunning site on the trail, and offers a panaromic view of the Margeride valley below. The Chapel served pilgrims en-route to Santiago, offering a peaceful haven as well as protection from vagabonds.
Day 2 - Monistrol d'Alier
Arrived for the night in Monistrol d’Alier after a steep descent of close to 800 metres. This is where I renamed the St. Jacques to ‘Chemin de la Cheville Tordue’ or the Path of the Twisted Ankle. Wanted to hijack that poor, lost donkey – but he didn’t look so friendly!
Monistrol lies on the Alier river, said to be one of the most wild in Europe. It offers 100 kms of class II, III and IV rapids flowing through the largest gorges in France. In the middle ages, Monistrol offered a safe crossing of the gorges, which were treacherous. It can now be crossed by the steel bridge built by Eiffel.
The Gorges d’Alier have rendered the region practically inaccessible since the beginning of time, making it one of the most unspoiled areas in France. The many caves found in the cliffs above the Alier were inhabited by man in the neolithic period.
I went to soak my ankle in the cold waters of Alier before returning to the hotel for a Pastis and a nap before dinner. Into bed early, as tomorrow is a 20km (8 mile) climb up the Margerides.
Day 3 - La Chapelle de la Madeleine
Nestled into the cliffs 600 meters above the Alier, is the enigmatic Chapelle de la Madeleine. Edified in the 17th century, the church is built into a cave that was once inhabited by man in the neolithic period. Passing by on Assomption, I had the great pleasure to find it open to the public. A cool retreat on a hot day of climbing!
There are sepulcres in the romanesque arcade to right of the church, containing an ossuary with the bones of children and adults who were residents of the high village. It is also said to contain coins and treasure.
Had to press on since the destination of La Clauze was still 18 kms (12 miles) away!
Day 3 -La Clauze
Arrived in La Clauze eight hours after leaving Monistrol, having the good fortune to be staying in luxury accommodations attached to the Tour de la Clauze. The tower was used as protection along the route, and provided the residents with a good source of revenue from tolls.
Local legend has it that a father of two girls died and was buried near the tower. His two girls, not yet baptised, were bitten by frogs while playing by the river. After the girls died from the poisonous frogs, the father resurrected himself (?!) and promptly appeared before the Curé to request a benediction of his daughters’ tomb. After the benediction, he erected a cross near the tower. From that day on, the frogs who stole the girls’ souls disappeared and the two girls now rest in eternal peace.
The woman who owned the Chambre d’Hôte is a descendent of the original owners and bought the property from her grandfather’s estate. She said nothing about poisonous frogs – so they must have been banished for eternity!
Day 4 - Le Domaine du Sauvage
Finally passed from the mountains to the plains and arrived at Le Sauvage. This majestic site, at 1300 meters (4200 ft) altitude, was constructed in 1198 as a ‘Hospital’ or place to welcome Pilgrims on the Chemin, run by the Templiers. The enormity of this cut-stone building with its roof of Lauzes is truly remarkable.
In the middle ages, the domaine was a fortress unto itself. Situated on the high plains, it was protected by the Gorges d’Alier to the east and the Aubrac mountains to the west. Due to its geography and harsh climate, it provided natural protection from invasion. Now it is a nature reserve. Given the abundance of water, altitude and peat bogs, the ecosystem can support a wide variety of flora and fauna unique to this region.
The Chemin provides everything needed for the poor Pilgrim – including cold springs to soak a twisted ankle!
Had a nice lunch here and left refreshed for another 4 hours to the next destination in Les Faux.
Day 4 - La Bête du Gévaudan
The Margeride Mountains were home to the feared bête du gévaudan, a man-eating, wolf-like creature that stalked the residents between 1764 – 1767. Victims were often killed by having their throats torn out.
It was said to have killed over 130 people. Public hysteria at the time led to the theory that supernatural beasts freely roamed the Gévaudan, but the deaths were most likely attributed to packs of wolves that roamed the mountains.
The mystery is kept alive today, with residents recounting stories of monstrous wolves, sadistic crimes, wild animals… He is still revered today in sculpture and art. The sculpture to the left was guarding the front of the church of St. Privat d’Alliers.
Today, there is no threat – and even kittens lounge in the shadows of the fearsome beast! I even came along a suspicious footprint, providing proof that the beast still exists.
Day 4 - Les Faux
Left le Sauvage after a leisurely lunch and headed for the next destination. This was the longest leg of the trip, at 24 kms (15 miles).
Alas, after 4 days of abuse on the left ankle, I got tripped up by a stray rock on the path and sprained the right. Limping into the hotel (seen at bottom, right) I ordered a bag of ice for the ankle and a Pastis for the soul.
Took advantage of the internet to book transportation on the Navette des Blessées (the shuttle for the injured) to the next destination.
An excellent dinner of grilled lamb chops washed down with a nice rosé made for a comfortable sleep before climbing on the bus with the other injured pilgrims.
Day 5 - Aumont Aubrac
Took the Navette des Blessées today for a visit to the doctor. 2 days of rest and can hit the road again on foot!
The village was established as a Parish founded by the Barons of Peyre around the year 1000. Much hasn’t changed in this village, other than they have a Doctor and Pharmacy, which is all that counts.
This is where I found that walking sticks are an absolute necessity! I had left on the trail with only one, that went pretty much unused during the first few days. Luckily, there was a hiking shop in town where I spent 80€ on a new pair. This turned out to be the best investment ever made. Not only do they give you balance, they take considerable weight off your legs, lessening the likelihood of further sprains.
Had a nice lunch and then spent the day resting the ankles. Did partake of a delicious steak that night, served with Aligot and a green salad.
Booked a taxi for the next morning to the next destination.
Day 6 - Finieyroles
No Navette to this village so had to take a taxi. It is the last outpost of civilisation before the mythical Plateau d’Aubrac – named the “séjour des vastes solitudes” (or the journey of extreme loneliness.) With a climb of over 2000 feet today, will hit the high plains for the next 50 kilometers. It is the part of journey that so disparaged the ancient pilgrims because of the vast wilerness and the harsh climate.
Armed with ankle braces and ibuprofen, finally set off, heading due west at 7h30 for the next leg of the journey.
