VIA PODIENSUS (2020)
CHEMIN DE ST JACQUES
It is not necessary to believe in God to be a good person. One can be spiritual without being religious… and for many, nature can be a church. Some of the best people in history did not believe in God, while some of the worst deeds were done in His name.
– Pope Francis
the chemin
Saint Jacques Appears to Charlemagne
Charlemagne, after having united the empires of France, Italy and Germany under the Carolingian Empire, was weary from his conquests. It was then that he decided to rest. One night, the Spirit of Saint Jacques appeared to him in a dream and said “My body is lying unknown in Galicia. I am surprised that after all of your other conquests that you have still not liberated my lands from the Sarrazins. You must leave quickly, and I will guide you.” Charlemagne was visited by the Spirit 3 times before the Emperor amassed an army and set route for Compostelle (Santiago), where the body was thought to lie. Upon the instructions of the Apostle, Charlemagne was guided by the Milky Way to Santiago, conquering Spain and Galicia on the way. Europe was born.
It was Pope Calixte II, Guy de Bourgogne, who recorded his first pilgrimage to Compostelle in 1108 and marked the trail. Over the centuries, many have followed his footsteps in homage to Saint Jacques. The popularity of the Chemin has grown over the past few decades, offering both believers and non-believers a chance to experience the magnificent beauty of the French countryside.
This modern-day Pilgrim was more motivated to explore the rich history, myths and legends held on the Chemin. The true gift of this pilgrimage was to stand in awe of the beauty of Nature and to experience the kindness of those encountered en-route.
During this journey, where sky meets earth, I found that we are inextricably tied together – man, nature and beast. It restored my faith in the fact that we are all on the this path that unites us and are still able to treat our fellow man with respect and dignity.
Bon Chemin à tous!
le Puy en velay to conques
The Via Podiensus starts in Le Puy en Velay, approximately 1 500 kms (950 miles) from its destination in Santiago de Compostella, where St. Jacques is thought to rest. This leg of the trip was 225 kms (140 miles), taking 12 days to reach my destination in Conques.
The first few days of the trip were arduous. The Volcanic Basin of Puy formed the rugged landscape of mountains, gorges and wild rivers that finally gave way to the Aubrac plains, at 1350 meters (4400ft) above sea level. Eventualy, the trail starts a slow descent into the Lot Valley, where my journey ended for this year.